How to Shift Gears better on a Mountain bike

Sounds confusing

Hi, I have recently started doing Bike trips. I live at a Hilly area so even the normal roads involve lot of ups/downs. I m facing lot of difficulty in managing the uphill. When I keep the gears at lower settings, that is, 1 at front & 1 at back, I end up just pedalling fast. I barely cover any distance. If I keep the gears higher, it takes lot of pressure. I m certain there is something wrong in my technique. What shoulf be the ideal approach?

If you like this video, you’re going to love http://bit.ly/2bERZwv. Check it out! It will take your mountain biking to another level entirely! ~ Chris

Just got myself a mountain bike and the tips are great!

So can shifting under a herd pedal load damage the rear derailleur? I'm looking at a used Kona bike in a few days that the individual claimed this happened and admitted it was a rookie mistake. I've never owned a multi speed bike before and I'm just looking for my first mountain bike.

nice video helped alot thx

so i just bought a mountain bike the other day and yesterday i shifted wrong and popped the chain off the front cogs. well, today i decided to experment with the different gears and now when i put the front gears into the the 2nd speed setting(out of 3) im hearing a rattling noise as if my chain is rubbing against another part of the bike. not sure what it is and clearly im not a mountain bike expert, so if anyone can give my any info or lead me to a website for more info, that would awsome :) absolutely love riding :3

What's the gears usually on the left called that controls the stiffness/power of the pedals

Are twist gears fine with mountain biking?

How I climb (Not necessarily short steep ones as shown in video) involves staying in the middle ring (3 gears in front) and shifting to an easier gear in the rear as needed. When the climb gets too steep, I then shift to the smallest ring in the front (I always do this BEFORE i get to the steep part that I am shifting for). Besides the risk of dropping a chain and the slower shift, as mentioned in the video, are there any risks to my chain/derailer/etc. by using this method?

+MTBtips I weigh 107 kg / 242 pounds and yes I'm a bit overweight but essentially very fit and extremely strong, as I'm a heavy weightlifter. My chain comes off all the time.... I bought the Shiman XLS but it's STILL coming off !!! I do realise from reading last night and seeing this that I was doing it ALL wrong, because I like to cycle slow and powerful using the largest front ring, and gear change in that position - and I wasn't backing off the force either. I am talking about flat roads, not uphill dirt track mind you! And I realise that the chain coming off is a common problem....... but tell me, even if I'm on the middle ring all the time and try to pedal gently during a shift change, can I actually hope to use a lot less force - surely if I weigh over 105kg, the the laws of physics require a greater force to even keep moving (when gravity is against me ie im going uphill) +MTBtips do you think it's fully possible for me to apply the required little force during a gear change? I'm losing confidence in my safety, and money spent.

is granny shift the 1st gear?

Good work and helpful tips ... waiting for more

I am looking at this because I can't shift to 5th gear or below on my mountainbike

This might sound silly, but what if I'm using a mountain bike on road? Will changing the gear help me increase momentum and is it still useful? Should I reduce the gear number when I wish to go faster?

Gear shifting is a chore! I wonder if going 1x10 will simplify stuff for learners.
I'd like to hear your opinion Chris?

good tips

I will summarise the tips in what I find most useful.

1. Don't apply force when changing gear (especially so with the front)
2. Change gear early when approaching a climb, if you are late, then get off bike if you have to and change the gear instead of grinding them under force.
3. When approaching a junction or traffic lights and you have to stop, get into a low gear ready for moving off again.
4. Don't cross chain your chain, its bad for chain and for front derailleur.
5. Change gears simultaneously, (and in opposite directions to get a smaller jump, allowing you to build up to higher gears in smaller steps)

One thing I do that I don't think is on the list.. (seems this is actually 22 now that I read list again)
Suppose I want a higher gear (by using the front gears), I will shift up 1 ring on the front, and down 1 ring on the back (at the same time), so that its not so much of a large jump.
Because shifting on the front obviously gives a bigger difference than on the rear, so by doing that, I find I can reach higher gears in more steps, so its a more continuous level of power needed.

How to Shift Gears better on a Mountain bike - 22 Do's and Don'ts

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