How to: Set up and adjust your rear derailleur
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It’s easy to get into a muddle when trying to sort your gears. The main pitfall seems to be a lack of understanding as to what the adjustments actually do. On all rear mechs there are three main adjustments - the limit screws, cable tension and something called B-tension adjustment. The two limit screws are actually mechanical stops that control the mech’s range of movement across the cassette. These can be adjusted at the high and low-limits of the cassette – hence the corresponding H and L written on the screws. Correct adjustment allows the mech to access all of the sprockets without overriding, which would cause the chain to derail, or worse, send it into the spokes. Once these limits are set they need no further adjustment, unless something becomes bent or you fit a different cassette or rear wheel. Cable tension is used to set the indexing, which means that for every click at the shifter the mech moves one gear. This is set initially at the clamp on the rear mech when you install the cable, and fine-tuned with the barrel adjuster on the shifter (or derailleur if it has one). B-tension adjusts the distance between the upper jockey wheel and the cassette sprockets. This distance is critical to optimum shifting performance, but it’s worth getting it right because is does vary across brands and types of rear mech. You don’t need many tools for this job and, as long as nothing is worn or bent, it’s relatively straightforward. Time taken: 5-40mins. Skill level: Low Money saved: £10 + Is it worth it: Most definitely – poor shifting is infuriating! Got into trouble? Go back to step 1 and try again. If that fails there’s always the good old LBS. From the April 2015 issue of MBR magazine
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Really good how to
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Brilliant. Was having a real game with my rear mech jumping about. Turned out the hanger bracket was loose. Cheers.
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Great tutorial. Thankyou
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Good vid, well explained thanks
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6:24.... I don't understand what you said. All the way in and then back out what?
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Shimano's instructions state that if you use 11-36 or 11-34 cassette the guide pulley should be 5-6 mm from the largest cassette sprocket, but if you use 11-32 cassette then the distance should be 9-10 mm.
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Cool vid' and excellent clear advice, thank you. On my Dura Ace 900 series, despite careful checking I am unable to determine why the chain snags and attempts to lift off the rear cluster when back peddling. It appears to occur at only one point on the chain as if the free wheel mechanism isn't free enough to rotate. All well lubed and clean. As far as I can tell without totally removing it, the chain appears to be in good condition . Any ideas please? - Again thanks.
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Very useful explanation, thanks. How in the world did you get everything so clean? The tires look a bit used, so it's not an all-new bike.
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thank you for the great explanation.
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I'm using a GX 2 x 11rear derailleur with a 11-46 cassette but can't back pedal without chain dropping, any help? The goat link isn't available for sram. My shifters, front and rear derailleur are all 2 x 11.
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my bike skips when I peddle. it's an older Norco sports bike. I figure I may need a new cable cause the wire protector is fread would I be right? or should I post a pic?
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I've got a XT shadow plus derailleur and a 42t expander cog on my formerly 11-36 cassette. I've found I need to run the B tension screw so that the top guide pulley is as close as possible to the largest cog, or else the shifting in the smallest cogs is terrible. (It's still BAD, but not TERRIBLE... ). Dunno why it's so bad, the whole bike is new as of March. How often do cables and housings need to be changed?
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Thank you this was excellent and helped me out a ton!
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great video man, saving me money thanks!
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Cool...!!! An updated video on rear derailleurs. This is the best channel for bike repairs on Youtube in my opinion, very clear and thorough instructions. Just have to figure out some speech differences here and there..(I'm American) lol. Al is the coolest !!
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i have a x9 rear derailleur and is skipping in 5th gear any ideas ? please
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Very good information and visuals. Just received my new bike and the derailer is out of sorts. On the initial test, the chain ran straight off. I made some adjustments, and it did help, but they were vague. After watching your vid, I will try to set everything with more precise settings. One thing I did notice was the Chain was on the 1st gear sprocket, but the shifter mech was indicating 2nd gear. Is this just a cable adjustment? Thanks.
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Great vid, It was the cable tension i couldent get right. ill be out later to sort my problem. thanks.
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Best explanation from what i seen so far, follow his steps and you cant go wrong. Thnx a lot
11m 5sLänge
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